Everest expedition from Tibet side
has become more popular among the mountaineers to
make their dream come true to stand on the summit
of Everest. Among the several reasons, low cost
of royalty and other basic mountaineering services
as well as the safest route to the summit are the
key factors to attract more Everest climbers from
North Col. than from the South Col. Technically,
it is more challenging than the South side but does
not have the ice fall danger. One of charmings of
Everest North Ridge route is that it offers the
view of virtually the whole route from the base
camp.
Expedition initially starts from driving
to BC at 5,200m and from there it is 22 km to ABC
at 6,400m with yak support. From ABC the route continues
up the East Rongbuk glacier and then to snow slopes
to the North Col at 7,000m where Camp 1 is established
on snow. This is a comfortable camp location, with
great views across the North Face and East Rongbuk
Glacier. However, it is not expansive. Climbing
snow slopes, Camp II will be pitched at 7400m. at
the head of the snow ramp that stretches up from
the Col. and the camp could be windy. The route
from Camp II to Camp III consists of a series of
rock and shingle steps and easy terrain. Camp III
will be at 7900m. on rocky shelves. The route from
Camp II to Camp III is quite windy. From C III the
route traverses across a series of rock steps and
snow slopes, then again on mixed rock and snow to
Camp 4 at 8,400m. on rocky ground, but sometimes
on ledges cut into snow, depending on snowfall in
the preceding season. The summit day starts from
here. The route consists of mixed rock and snow
steps some of them are quite steep to the NE ridge
and then finally to the summit via the Three Steps.
Outline Itinerary
Day 01 :
Arrive in Kathmandu.
Day 02-04 : KTM for official formalities
and other preparation.
Day 05 : Drive to Zangmu.
Day 06 : Drive to Nyalam.
Day 07 : Rest at Nyalam for acclimatization.
Day 08 : Drive to Xegar.
Day 09 : Drive to Everest Base
Camp.
Day 10 : Everest Base Camp.
Day 11 - 12 : Trek toBC to Advance
Base Camp.
Day 13 : Advance Base Camp.
Day 14-43 : Climbing Period.
Day 44 : Trek to ABC
Day 45 : Trek to Base Camp.
Day 46 : Clean up the Base Camp.
Day 47 : Drive from Base Camp to
Nyalam.
Day 48 : Drive to Kathmandu.
Day 49 : Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 50 : Airport transfer for return
flight.